Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula is famous for its numerous haciendas, a reminder of the region’s golden age when it was at the centre of henequen production, used to make and supply rope to the world.
With the advent of synthetic fibers after the Second World War, demand for henequen crashed and with it the fortunes of the region’s haciendas, the vast majority of which soon lay abandoned.
While henequen production is unlikely to make a comeback anytime soon, at least some of the Yucatan Peninsula’s haciendas have managed to reinvent themselves to take advantage of the growth in tourism to the region.
This short feature is about four haciendas, all within a short drive of each other just south of Merida and each with a different outcome.
1 – Hacienda Temozon
We begin with Hacienda Temozon, one of a number of haciendas that have been converted into luxury hotels without losing sight of their architectural heritage.
Apart from offering, luxurious, atmospheric accommodation, Hacienda Temozon is also one of the best located hacienda hotels in the region, with Merida just to the north, Uxmal & the Puuc Route just to the south, Celestun to the west, numerous cenotes within easy reach and, as we shall see, a variety of haciendas close by.
The Hacienda Temozon certainly isn’t cheap (for a more affordable hacienda experience, consider staying at Hacienda Sacnicte near Izamal) but, if you can, we would strongly recommend staying here for 2 or 3 nights.
2 – Hacienda Sotuta de Peon
We’re going to assume that you are staying at Hacienda Temozon, in which case the Hacienda Sotuta de Peon is an easy, 30 minute drive.
While we remain confident that henequen production will not be making a comeback in the region, one place where you can see for yourself how it was grown and processed is at Hacienda Sotuta de Peon, a so-called living museum.
Guided, group tours of the hacienda take approximately 3 hours so after a leisurely breakfast at Temozon, the short drive to Temozon and the tour, it will be time for lunch which we suggest you take at Sotuta de Peon’s onsite restaurant.
3 – Hacienda Uayalceh
Heading back the way you came, you will pass through the small town of Uayalceh, ignored by most visitors to the region but home to the abandoned ruins of its very own hacienda.
Dominating this small, sleepy town, visitors can simply turn up and wander around the hacienda without a ticket or a guide.
Parts of the hacienda are, for clear safety reasons, no-go areas, but one can still easily spend 30 fascinating minutes simply taking in what is left of this once magnificent property and contemplating its sad fall from grace.
Departing the hacienda and heading back towards Temozon, look out on your right for the estate’s old cemetery.
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4 – Hacienda Yaxcopoil
Continuing back through and past Temozon, there is yet another abandoned hacienda, this time in the tiny village of Sihunchen but in a much worse condition than even Uayalceh.
As you hit the main road north to Merida, highway 261, you will almost immediately reach the last of today’s 4 featured haciendas, Hacienda Yaxcopoil.
Unlike the previous, 3 haciendas, Hacienda Yaxcopoil (which limped on until the 1980s as a going concern) is today a museum (closed on Sunday).
Entrance is via the original home which still exhibits much of the original furniture and furnishings from the hacienda’s last occupants who still own the property and much of the surrounding land.
Although there are tours of the hacienda (generally in Spanish), casual visitors are free to explore the site on their own. Plan on spending an hour or so.
From Hacienda Yaxcopoil it is then no more a 20 minute drive back to Hacienda Temozon where your pool awaits you.
Note: If you’re interested in the haciendas of the Yucatan Peninsula, you might want to check out our sample Hacienda Tour.